by Pete Barba with contributions from Kate, Gwyn and Drew

We weren’t supposed to visit Argentina on this trip.  It was on our original list, but early on we cut it due to time and budget constraints.  Instead, we planned to save it for a stand alone trip sometime in the future.  Unfortunately, the political unrest in Peru made us scramble to change our plans last minute, and we needed a place to go for two weeks.  While we are sad for the Peruvian people’s struggles and disappointed that we didn’t get to experience Peru, we had a great time in Argentina, a country full of culture and amazing food.

Tigre

After a long series of flights over three days from Amsterdam to Buenos Aires (more on this adventure next time), we arrived in Tigre, a small town about an hour north of Buenos Aires.  Tigre is the jumping off point for people who wish to visit the Paraná Delta, the world’s third largest delta and a popular vacation location for many Porteñas (urbanites from Buenos Aires).  We stayed at a very nice Airbnb apartment along the waterfront about a mile outside the main part of town.  Since we had put this visit together last minute, our time in Argentina was less touristy and more about daily living.  We used it as downtime to catch up on schooling, trip planning, and other obligations.  

In Tigre our days typically started with a long walk before the heat set in.  After coming from the cold winter of Europe to the steamy summer of South America, our bodies weren’t used to the heat and humidity.  On our first walk, Gwyn nearly melted from the heat, and on day two Drew almost passed out.  Slowly we adjusted by increasing our hydration and avoiding the midday sun.  Each day in Tigre we got in our 10-20,000 steps and did our best to reset our bodies after the fun but unhealthy habits we fell into while in Europe with friends.  The green grocery two blocks away became a daily stop; we were buying bags of fruits and veggies per day.  After the debauchery of the holidays, we cut back on our alcohol and junk food, and ate more meals at home.  Like everyone else, we made our New Year’s promises and hope to keep them.

The tree-lined waterfront promenade near our apartment became our stomping grounds.  Not only did we go for walks daily, we also frequented the waterfront cafes in the long golden evenings.  Living like Argentinians, we enjoyed a glass of South American wine or treated ourselves to a lovely dinner.  As we sat along the waterfront we enjoyed watching the water traffic on the river, the lovers holding hands as they strolled, and the families picnicking in the grassy areas.  Ever present were the old men sitting on their benches or beach chairs and drinking mate, a South American tea that is treated as a sacrament by some Argentinians.  

Tigre has its version of the Wildwood or Santa Cruz boardwalk with their amusement park called Parque de la Costa, as told by Gwyn:

When we were in Tigre we stumbled upon an amusement park. It was a blazing day so we thought it would be nice to cool down on the rides. The first ride we did was a roller coaster that did loop-de-loops the whole time. It was still too hot so we went on the log flume. This was the wettest ride we’ve ever been on. To dry off we went on a ride that rolled like you’re in a washing machine; it was insane! My favorite ride was the pendulum that spun while you were swinging. As a huge fan of amusement parks this was one of my highlights of Argentina.          -Gwyn

In addition to a fun amusement park, Tigre also has the Puerto de Frutos, an old fruit port, turned into a shopping area.  Our shopper, Gwyn, enjoyed wandering the stalls for hours and found her favorite shop selling fashionable accessories.  Two hats, a purse, a bracelet, and two folding fans later, Gwyn fulfilled her shopping quota with Kate encouraging her.  Meanwhile, Drew and I stood back and did our best to look interested.  The BBQ supplies store and cafe with a familiar name did briefly catch my attention…

Towards the end of our stay we finally got on one of the boats we had seen traversing up and down the river.  We took a two hour sightseeing ride into the delta to see what the fuss was all about.  The delta is dissected into countless small islands connected by a few wide rivers, but mostly small canals and narrow streams.  The Argentinians appear to use these islands for rustic vacation homes, though we did see a church and some restaurants and shops.  As in Venice, the general store is a boat traveling from dock to dock and everything is transported in and out by boat.  It was entertaining to wave at families swimming in the river and see the reeds bowed over by our wake.  It was worlds away from cosmopolitan Buenos Aires, and I think that was the point!          -Kate

Overall Tigre was a great way to ease into South America after our European winter experiences.

Buenos Aires

After seven days in Tigre our favorite driver Joel took us to downtown Buenos Aires for our next Airbnb.  This Airbnb was unique and quirky.  Our best guess is that the apartment is part of an old neighborhood that has been converted from individual rooms into larger apartments.  We entered through a gate into a long whitewashed alley reminiscent of the Greek isles or Morocco.  After climbing the steps, our apartment door opened into what was probably once a garden courtyard, complete with glass ceiling and green bushy plants.  Off to one side was a kitchen open to the courtyard.  On the other side were two rooms for the kids (finally, separate rooms!).  Straight ahead was a dining room with towering ceiling and a tight spiral staircase that led to the master bedroom one story up.  The master bedroom, complete with cracked brick ceiling, was spacious and had a bathroom on one end.  Outside was a rooftop patio, accessible by another tight spiral staircase, with an outdoor kitchen, grill, and views over the local neighborhood.  The entire apartment was decorated with souvenirs from the owner’s travels, giving the feeling of wanderlust and global exploration.  

In addition to the Airbnb being artistic and unique, its location was perfect.  Directly across the street was the famed San Telmo Market, a Buenos Aires institution, filled with green grocers and restaurants.  For those on the US East Coast, think the Redding terminal station in Philly; for those on the US West Coast, recall the Ferry Building in San Francisco.  We ate many a meal in the market because the food was cheap, delicious, and too convenient for our slipping resolutions.  Choripan sandwiches – chorizo sausages grilled to perfection, with tangy sauces and chewy bread; empanadas – South American pocket food filled with meat, potatoes and veggies; asado – the famous grilled steaks for which Argentina is known; tacos and margaritas – not Argentinian but they reminded us of our California roots; pho – Vietnamese soup, rich, flavorful and full of noodles.  Ok, so that’s last one doesn’t fit with South American food, but after two weeks of eating Latin American cuisine, we were craving the Southeast Asian food we haven’t had in six months.  Outside the market we sampled local beverages and succumbed to amazing bar fries at The Federal Bar, and enjoyed the atmosphere and beef at Perón Perón. Yes, we watched Evita and had the songs in our head the entire two weeks after.

As you have likely figured out by this point in our stories, we love food.  To call us food snobs or foodies would probably be incorrect.  We are just as happy (if not happier) eating street food as we are eating at a fancy restaurant.  Some of our best meals have been eaten standing up, walking down a street, or sitting on a plastic stool on the sidewalk.  The choripan sandwich mentioned above is one of those meals.  Inside the market is La Choripaneria, one of those magical places where style meets quality at a cheap price.  This industrial looking establishment has a long wooden bar overlooking the wood fired grill where the chefs show off their skills.  As you marvel at their technique of keeping the coals burning at the right temperature while juggling various sausages at different stages of cooking, you can feel the heat radiating out of the blacked iron grill.  The three chefs seamlessly rotate roles every few minutes between dishwashing, food prep and grilling to cope with the sweltering heat.  The excellent servers are juggling orders, beverages and menus, all while keeping the restaurant flowing in a controlled bustle.  Rock music blares from the speakers as hungry patrons stuff their bellies and souls are filled to the brim with pleasure.  For $3, you get a food show, rock concert, a quick Spanish lesson and amazing food.  Top that, McDonalds.

In addition to exploring the local food and markets of Buenos Aires, we wandered the city by foot, enjoying the European architecture.  During our long walks (have I mentioned I like to walk a lot?) we explored the old port, a reimagined waterfront with pedestrian walkway and countless restaurants; the Teatro Colón, one of the finest theaters in South America; the Casa Rosada, the presidential offices; and numerous neighborhood markets, cultural gems filled with street entertainers, handicrafts and antiques.  

Speaking of entertainers, 2022 World Cup Champions Lionel Messi and the Argentinian national football team were enthusiastically celebrated throughout the country. We saw murals, billboards, replays of the games in bars, and blue and white jerseys on nearly every child and many adults as well.  It nearly overwhelmed the other passion of the Buenos Aires people: tango.  

We are far more into dance than sports, so we sought out tango street performers at the local markets.  Pete also found a special tango experience for us.  We used Airbnb Experiences for the first time and had a fantastic evening with Manuel Vicente and a group of fellow travelers.  We started with a small group lesson where Manuel focused on feeling the music and the connection between partners.  Next we went to a local milonga, a dance hall with a bar and live band.  We joined a larger dance lesson/practice session before the locals arrived and the band played their first set.  We convinced the kids to join us in the lessons, but they refused to dance with others once the dance floor opened to the experienced locals.  Instead, we all watched the beautiful dancing of both amateur and professional dancers.  Pete and I braved the beginners center circle a few times and had a lovely time.  We need to get back to our ballroom dancing days!          -Kate

San Antonio de Areco

While our days were filled with the usual schooling and exploring, we did treat ourselves to a relaxing day in the country.  Argentina is know for their cowboy culture and that is best experienced by visiting an estancia, a traditional horse ranch.  Our new friend, Daniel, picked us up and we talked about everything from politics to engineering over the 90 minute drive to San Antonio de Areco.  We did a quick walking tour and chocolate tasting at this cultural seat of the pampas region, complete with town square, Catholic Church San Antonio de Padua, governors mansion and waterfront.

Then we continued on to the Estancia La Porteña, where we were met by a gaucho on horseback carrying a flag as we drove down the treelined driveway.  We are from California horse country, so the farm felt like home.  Large trees towered overhead as we lounged and picnicked on the browning grass.  A beautiful table was set up below a sprawling oak tree, and we were fed like like geese being stuffed for the slaughter with local wine, more meat than we’ve ever eaten, empanadas, and salads.  Plate after plate of grilled meat was served, the ribs, chicken, sirloin and short ribs grilled to perfection by the gauchos and served with chimichurri, an Argentinian sauce of oil, herbs and spices.  To top off our meal, we were treated to a performance of both “danzes folkloricas” and modern songs played by Ernesto Hernandez on the bandoneon.

During our time on the farm, we lounged as we played cards, swam in the pool and went horseback riding twice.  As told by Drew:

The second horseback ride was my favorite part of the day. With the help of the gauchos my family and I climbed onto the horses and started a gentle walk to an open field. There we walked the outer rim of the trees. There were wild horses, interesting bushes, and a setting sun that cast a warm glow on the ground. My horse was obedient and stayed behind the lead horse, perfectly matching its speed. However, Gwyn’s horse was slightly slower and occasionally had to trot to keep up. We made our way around the field, through a row of large trees, and slowly came back to the house. At the gate we raced our horses to the barn. It was a wonderful ride.          -Drew

The day was perfect because it reminded us of home.  There were farm dogs to pet, the smell of the oaks and dried grasses, the warm and dry weather, the outdoor dining including grilled food and local wine, and to top it off a distant wildfire —all felt like our Northern California hometown. 

While were were totally unprepared to explore Argentina, as it was a last minute change of plans, it was a wonderful two and a half weeks.  Lots of downtime, miles of exploring on foot, unique food that filled our bellies, learning and relearning Spanish, and culture that combines its European immigrant heritage with a South American flair.  We will be going back, for there is so much more to explore in Argentina.  We want to see Patagonia, wine country, and Iguazu Falls, but that will be another trip or two in the coming years.  

After 17 days we were off again, this time to Bolivia, where we would feel what its like to breath in air at 15,000 feet above seat level, explore salt flats the size of Jamaica, see (and eat) llamas, and explore a city by aerial gondola.  Look for that story in two weeks….

Thanks for reading to the end.  Next up: Transition Days: Madrid and Lima!  Don’t forget to check out our past stories and subscribe for future articles as well.  Find us on Facebook and Instagram for bonus content!  Please note that any links or business names provided are for information only, we did not receive any compensation for our opinions or recommendations. As always, if you are planning a trip to any location we visit we are happy to provide more details and opinions, so feel free to contact us.